At a long-time Victoria favourite, Pagliacci's, you never know who is going to show up.
Bob Dylan has graced the premises as did Sir Ian McKellen - who played Gandalf of Lord of the Rings. In fact, McKellen helped choose the dessert menu, recalls Pagliacci's owner, Solomon Siegel.
"My dad and I were in the middle of arguing over whether one of our cakes should remain on the menu. My dad roped McKellen into trying the cake and making the decision for us which blossomed into him basically eating at the restaurant every day. He'd come in after hours and the kitchen, of course, loved him. He even showed up at our staff party and hung out with everyone."
That week, Siegel was walking down the street when he heard someone call out his name. He was surprised to see that it was McKellen, and even more surprised when he invited him to a screening.
"I ended up watching the second Lord of the Rings movie the day before everyone else did at the Vic Theatre sitting next to Ian McKellen," Siegel said laughing. "He is the nicest guy."
For 45 years, the family-run Pagliacci's has made a name for itself in Victoria, thanks to its renowned Italian food, pasta and desserts, hospitality, live music and block parties.
The restaurant was brought to life by Howie Siegel, Solomon Siegel's father, and Siegel's friend, Alan Di Fiore, who dreamt of opening an Italian-family restaurant. The two partnered to open the business, creating a menu using recipes from Di Fiore's mother.
Solomon Siegel, who took over the restaurant in 2014, operates the business in the way his father taught him.
"I've seen him seat people on a milk crate because we ran out of chairs. It's not the quality of chair that matters, it's the level of hospitality and welcoming and love that you seek with someone, trying to treat people the same as guests in your home is absolutely core."
Live music, from klezmer to jazz, lights up the atmosphere Sundays through Thursdays and is part of the welcoming charm. Siegel grew up surrounded and moulded by it. He began taking music lessons with Mark Atkinson from the Mark Atkinson Trio (regular Pagliacci's performers) when he was 13 years old, which developed into a lifelong passion.
Hundreds of musicians have played at Pagliacci's, like Etta James, Dexter Gordon and Doctor John.
“We helped Diana Krall get her start here, one of her first gigs was at Pagliacci's ... We're 45 years old now, and as far as we know, the longest ongoing, free music venue in Canada. We've searched around and have yet to find another place that's consistently had live music that long.”
Musician Scott White, who has played at the restaurant since Siegel was born, is a "dear friend" who gave Siegel rhythm guitar lessons and agreed to lead a band Siegel put together.
"I named the band The Vanity Project because, in a sense, it‘s something for me. We play every Wednesday from 8-10 p.m.," he said.
Live music also helped them get through the pandemic, Siegel adds, alongside loyal patrons and supportive staff.
"I realized I could actually increase the amount of live music we have outside and create an outdoor space where I could put musicians to work and have people enjoy live music."
One week, he realized he would make more money off subsidies if he temporarily shut down but he decided against that.
"It wasn't about just trying to maximize profits. It was about keeping the place and culture going and my staff working and my guests fed." Siegel said.
After going through difficult times during the pandemic like most other restaurants, it's perhaps a good year as any to celebrate the 45th anniversary of the restaurant with the return of the Pagliacci's Block Party – a free outdoor concert from 4-10 p.m. which will take place on Aug. 24.
“Last time we did a big kind of concert was for the 20th anniversary. Terry David Mulligan is going to be emceeing. The Bills are going to be headlining. It’s one you don’t want to miss.”
It's all part of encapsulating the magic, the music and the hospitality that makes Pagliacci's a timeless place in Victoria's restaurant scene.
"Having live music really adds to the experience," Siegel said. "It's called the hospitality industry, not food and beverage or anything, because ultimately, what we're selling is love."
This article is from the 2024 edition of Best of the City.
