For some, one time on the famous 75-km West Coast Trail is more than enough for a lifetime of memories. For Victoria local Wayne Aitken, it's an epic journey he's traversed more than 25 times.
As co-author of Amazon Best Seller, Blisters and Bliss: The Trekker's Guide to the West Coast Trail, Aitken has documented his awe for the trail, plus sage advice for tackling it, since 1989.
Whether recalling the “most incredible” sandy beaches, the “huge boulders and logs” at Owen Point that he had to scramble over, or the time a bear followed him down a ladder, each experience has been an unforgettable feat of triumph, bringing him back time again.
"It's 75k of really beautiful, ever-changing backcountry wilderness," he told Victoria News.
Located in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on Vancouver Island, the trail’s rugged beauty and the challenge it presents have captivated people for over a century, making it one of the world's top trails. Those walking its steps follow a path built in 1907 to help rescue shipwreck survivors, plus early trade and travel trails used by First Nations.
But those drawn in by the trail's call must note: it crosses demanding terrain including deep mud, river crossings and steep climbs, weaving through coastal scenery, old-growth forests, suspension bridges and more than 100 ladder systems. Considering that around 100 medical evacuations take place a year, and it takes about a week to complete, it’s important to be prepared.
"As with any world-class trek — [it] can be a time of intense pleasure… or exhausting agony. The difference is usually in the amount of care taken in preparing for the trip," Blisters and Bliss reads.
There are three main trailheads to start from: Gordon River (near Port Renfrew), Pachena Bay (near Bamfield), and Nitinaht Village (via water taxi). But no matter where one starts, the visceral wilderness and the sense of accomplishment at the end contribute to the journey's beauty. Wayne says people usually tackle it with one of two attitudes: “I’m going to beat the trail, or I’m going to be with the trail."
So what motivated Aitken to do it so many times?
Partly the need to keep the book updated, with around 70,000 copies now sold, but second, because "it's a great trail," he said.
"The elation at the end is always pretty consistent ... there's a tremendous sense of personal achievement."
The book boasts beautiful descriptions of merging with nature, playful recollections of the bragging rights that come with completing it ("Muddied hikers arriving at Walbran from the South love to tell tales of horror to the clean-skinned beach walkers from the North"), and stories that seem straight out of a sitcom, brought to life with Aitken's penchant for playful wit.
One of Aitken's favourites is a hilarious memory with Dave Foster, his friend and co-author, who passed in 2018.
"It was an extremely foggy day, halfway across the trail, and all of a sudden, this guy comes through the mist and he's carrying an umbrella and a suitcase."
Apparently, the British man was seeking Banfield, to start his job as a cook. The man had asked how to get there, and someone had given him the misguided advice to take one of the Island's most challenging trails. Whether he made it to work on time, Aitken couldn't say.
But it was Aitken's last time on the trail, in 2016, that was one of his most special. He has since suffered a "severe" bike accident in 2018, and now, at 79, he has a titanium hip and seven stents in his heart that have forced him to finally hang up his boots.
That last hike, with his daughter, son-in-law and two grandsons, who now help write new book editions, fills his heart.
"I suppose if I had to name one, it was the last trip. A lot of nostalgia. Three generations of us having a great time. And yeah, that one was really special."
While bittersweet, Aitken has a lifetime of memories to look back on and a legacy that aids new generations in experiencing the awe that happens in the quiet mist of the forest, with a feet full of blisters, and an unforgettable sense of accomplishment.
To learn more about the West Coast Trail, check out Wayne’s website, https://blistersbliss.com/ – he’s full of invaluable advice and incredible stories.
