It’s only appropriate that the town of Sooke, located in some of the most naturally beautiful landscapes in the world, would have eating establishments that value the natural goodness of what’s grown and raised on the land.
But let’s look at the alternatives. To start, it shouldn’t surprise anyone that, with very few exceptions, the nutrient level of food diminishes following harvest, slaughter or collection, and the longer it takes for food to be consumed, the fewer nutrients – and flavour – it will have.
The produce available in most grocery stores and some restaurant food has probably been picked early (before it ripens and the taste has fully developed), shipped significant distances, and subjected to chemical treatments and storage strategies to make it more palatable.
But bite into a locally grown heirloom tomato and the difference is immediately recognizable.
The good news is that some shortfalls can be addressed by sourcing food locally, at farmers’ markets or selected food vendors.
And, for folks who want a great restaurant meal, it’s possible to find Sooke-area establishments that almost exclusively use locally produced food to create their menu items.
“To begin with, serving truly fresh food can’t be compared to some of the other products out there,” said Val Lessard. She operates the West Coast Grill at the Prestige Oceanfront Resort and is a proponent of the farm-to-table concept.
“The food we source locally can’t be compared to other suppliers. It has a completely different taste profile. It’s also a way of supporting our local community, and that’s very important.”
Brooke Fader, the co-owner of Wild Mountain, echoes that sentiment and takes it a step further. Located just up the street from the Government Wharf on Maple Avenue South, the restaurant occupies what was once the home of a local fishing family.
The ingredients used are almost all locally sourced from farmers, fishers, and gatherers. The restaurant’s menu changes with the harvest and the season, so whatever arrives at your table is fresh, nutritious and tasty.
“We first adopted this philosophy while in Italy and joined with a movement called Slow Food International. It was a grassroots movement formed to promote good, clean food for everyone while defending biological and cultural diversity,” said Fader. "It’s important that we support our fishers and farmers. If we lose them, we lose the land, the knowledge and the stewardship of the land.”
And, of course, the food tastes phenomenal.
That’s no surprise to Lo Shrum, the owner of the Greener Side Farm. He came to the community specifically to supply Wild Mountain.
“We use no tractors or other big machines. It’s all hand-tilled and better for the environment,” Shrum said.
“And the food is delicious. Often, our harvest is taken to the restaurant and may be served within hours of being picked. You can’t get any better than that.”
And while some restaurants out there may claim to be “farm fresh,” it’s usually possible to discover the truth by simply asking them to name the farm. In Sooke, the farm-to-table restaurants will pass that test every time.
For more information on Wild Mountain restaurant, visit www.wildmountaindinners.com/.
