“We need to get away,” I said to my husband after the monotony of parenting, working and daily life had lately left us feeling more like roommates than partners.
We’d just finished an especially exhausting bedtime with our two young children and were both too tired to watch a movie, let alone reconnect after a long week. “A night away would be nice,” he agreed. While I pondered how we might convince our 17-year-old daughter to watch her younger siblings for a night or two, he promptly fell asleep.
Our chance to get away came a few weeks later when the stars aligned for a staycation in the heart of Victoria, B.C., at the beautiful, award-winning Magnolia Hotel & Spa.
Pulling up to the boutique hotel, tucked into the heart of downtown, felt like the sunrise after a seemingly endless night. Within its walls was the promise of two nights alone with my closest and most cherished friend. We’d indulge in decadent cuisine, enjoy a relaxing morning in an oh-so-comfy bed, and spend the afternoon strolling Victoria’s picturesque waterfront.
Arriving first meant I could check out our room before my husband arrived after work. It didn’t disappoint – a corner suite on the sixth floor with a peek-a-boo ocean view of Victoria’s Inner Harbour, a king-sized bed, and in the bathroom… Ah, yes! A deep soaker tub I would absolutely be enjoying after dinner. Everything we needed to forget life’s stresses for a brief but sweet 48 hours.
While time away with my spouse would be the highlight of the weekend, I was also eager to experience our destination. The Magnolia Hotel and its celebrated restaurant, The Courtney Room, had been on my Pacific Northwest bucket list for a while, and I was thrilled to see if it would live up to the hype (spoiler alert: it did!).
With weekends away being a rare commodity, I’ve become particular about where and how I spend that precious time. When considering hotels, I have a few non-negotiables: Is there a soaker tub or hot tub? Can I order room service? Will the chef’s culinary brilliance leave me with tears of joy? Is the room somewhere I’ll want to relax and make the most of my time away?
If I’m going to plan a weekend away, I want to enjoy luxuries I don’t normally have the chance to savour in my day-to-day life: relaxation, elevated dining and a little peace and quiet. With the Magnolia Hotel’s many well-deserved accolades, I was not disappointed.
Winner of Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards since 2014, and listed among Travel + Leisure’s Top 500 Hotels in the World in 2024 – among many other notable awards – the locally owned Magnolia is perfectly located for those wanting to enjoy downtown Victoria. Steps from the iconic Inner Harbour, and in the heart of the city’s shopping, dining and attractions, the hotel makes it easy to explore the Capital, then return to a relaxing retreat. The hotel even offers an in-house spa with a range of cutting-edge skin treatments, as well as traditional massage options. Though separately owned, The Spa Magnolia is easily accessible from the hotel. While we didn’t have time to indulge on this visit, it’s certainly on our to-do list for next time!
With just 64 rooms, the Magnolia offers personalised service and attention to detail that larger hotels often can’t match. In-room amenities cater to those seeking relaxation and luxury without pretension. From the Salt Spring Soap Works bubble bath that beckoned me to the tub, to the Rogers’ chocolates that appeared beside our bed each night during turn-down service, every detail added to the experience.
And, as I’ve always appreciated local businesses that support one another, it was refreshing to see an award-winning hotel like the Magnolia hand-select local products from around the coast. This commitment enhances the stay and fosters a sense of community that resonates with guests like me.
Decadent dinners pair best with a West Coast storm
In the week leading up to our visit, I’d daydreamed about the weekend ahead. I’d researched the hotel, its awards, and The Courtney Room, renowned for its elevated menu that showcases classic fine dining dishes with a West Coast flair.
Named one of Canada’s Best New Restaurants in 2018, one of Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants in 2019 and 2024 winner of YAM Magazine Best Restaurant Awards - Restaurant of the Year, Best Sommelier/Wine Program, The Courtney Room had been a deciding factor in adding The Magnolia to my must-visit hotel list.
What sets The Courtney Room apart is how Executive Chef Brian Tesolin and his team elevate familiar dishes in a way that’s uniquely their own. Since joining in 2019, Tesolin has honed his vision for elevating Vancouver Island and Pacific Northwest cuisine in a formal dining setting. Now as Executive Chef, Tesolin’s focus on locally sourced, in-season products creates an unforgettable dining experience for guests.
We started our meal with a beet and chicory salad and cured Hokkaido scallops, served with locally sourced salal berries, which we’d seen on local hikes but hadn’t tried. Their mild, sweet flavour complemented the other delicate flavours of the dish perfectly. As we savoured our starters and sipped a Shiso Highball and Sol Seeker, from the seasonal cocktail menu, the last evening light faded away and the city lights flickered to life outside our window.
For our mains, I indulged in the highly recommended German Butter Potato Ravioli with Dungeness crab, saffron and garlic – easily one of the best dishes I’ve enjoyed. My husband’s striploin, cooked to a perfect medium-rare, was served with delicious seasonal veggies.
Our seasonally inspired meals served as the perfect accompaniment to the storm brewing outside, as strong winds and heavy rain roared into downtown Victoria, and as we savoured our meals, the attentive staff, rotating cocktail menu and elegant atmosphere left us looking forward to our next visit.
Embracing the storm
Perhaps we should have taken the weather as a warning and cancelled our evening plans, but both my husband and I grew up on the Islands, and if anything, stormy weather was a welcome challenge – an added thrill to a night out rather than a reason to stay indoors.
After a quick costume change and a pep talk, we headed back down the elevators, through the exquisite lobby, and into the stormy night.
While the physical landscape of Victoria is unchanging, local entrepreneurs are regularly updating the selection of late-night venues. From nightclubs to jazz clubs, elegant theatre performances to traditional Irish Pub crawls, Victoria has something to offer everyone, even during the ‘off-season.’ We opted to try out one of the newer destinations in town, Pinhalla Pinball and Pizzeria. Just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, it seemed like a fun, if quirky, way to spend our Friday night.
The lights, atmosphere and array of modern and vintage pinball machines offered a marvellous sense of nostalgia. The older machines were a blast from the past and while the brighter lights of the modern games made it easier to keep track of the ball, it was soon evident that neither of us were very good at pinball anymore, Still, we had fun trying all the same!
Strolling back through the colourful streets of Chinatown, where red lanterns bobbed and swayed in the wind, and past the bars and pubs where nighttime revellers mingled out front, unfazed by the rain, we found our way back to the welcoming lights of the Magnolia.
Storm watching & Potatoes Courtney
By morning, the worst of the storm had moved on and though we’d originally planned to borrow the hotel’s complimentary bikes and follow the carefully curated maps, with the occasional downpour looming, we opted to explore on foot, umbrellas in hand.
The Magnolia Hotel’s central location gave us easy access to shops in Old Town, including an array of locally owned boutiques, galleries and destinations like Zingaro Floral Perfumery, where local perfumer and florist Palma Zingaro has created an old-world aesthetic filled with handcrafted floral scents.
With the rain starting up again, we ducked into the Royal BC Museum, eager to see Stonehenge, an enthralling exhibition featuring more than 400 artefacts from the iconic World Heritage Site. (For those planning to visit the exhibit as part of their own winter getaway, Stonehenge wraps up Jan. 5.)
A short walk back left us ready to warm up from our afternoon adventures, and the day’s biggest challenge became deciding what to order from room service upon our return.
If dinner the night before had taught us anything, it was that everything on the menu was bound to be delicious. While this should have made it easier to order, it left us wanting to sample everything. Ultimately, we narrowed it down to Potatoes Courtney – a suggestion from multiple Magnolia team members the day before – along with buttermilk-fried mushrooms and a cheese plate featuring house-made focaccia and preserves. Settled into the bay window, we enjoyed a little people-watching and indulgent snacking.
Before checking out the next morning, we enjoyed breakfast in The Courtney Room, just as delightful as their dinner and room service offerings, and after settling our room charges, we sipped complimentary house-made apple cider while waiting for the valet to bring our car around.
The memories made over the past 48 hours would carry us through many more long days and nights until we can sneak away again for another Island respite to refuel our hearts and souls.
If you go:
The Magnolia Hotel & Spa
For those coming from Washington state, Blackball Ferry Line’s MV Coho docks just a short walk away (find their schedule at cohoferry.com), and Harbour Air lands in the Inner Harbour, connecting downtown Victoria with Vancouver (harbourair.com).
The Courtney Room –
The Spa Magnolia - (250)
A word about weather: Planning your own vacation or staycation in Victoria this off-season? Keep in mind that weather this time of year – while often lovely – can be unpredictable. Locals often like to quote author Alfred Wainwright, who said, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.”
Pack appropriately and prepare for the possibility of ferry and flight delays in case an unexpected Pacific Northwest storm rolls in.
Nearby attractions: Some of my personal favourite attractions within easy walking distance of The Magnolia Hotel include the Parliament Buildings, Discover the Past’s Ghostly Walks, The Royal Theatre, and the viral sensation, Victoria Bug Zoo (a favourite, along with Beacon Hill Park and Miniature World, when the kids are in tow!)
A short drive or bike ride away, you’ll find other well-known destinations like Craigdarroch Castle and Abkhazi Gardens. Adventure a little further and you’ll find the renowned Butchart Gardens, Victoria Butterfly Gardens, Hatley Castle and an endless array of hiking, biking and walking trails.
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